Our goal on this trip was to ride some of the Kansas Scenic Byways as listed in a publication of the same name. There are nine of them. We would not ride three of them simply because we’ve ridden them before. One is the Glacial Hills Byway which is K-7 Hwy from Leavenworth to White Cloud in northeast Kansas. The second is the Frontier Military Byway from Leavenworth south through Ft. Scott to Baxter Springs. The third is the Native Stone Byway from Dover to Alma on highways 4 and 99.
There are other places we want to visit that we learned about from other sources. Those include the world’s largest ball of twine in Cawker City, Mushroom Rock State Park, the Garden of Eden in Lucas, and Liberty of the Plains south of Smith Center.
Friday; May 15, 2009
We (Chris and I) left home in Shawnee at 11:45 AM. It was cloudy and 78 degrees. Our destination was Wichita, where we were to have dinner with our good friends, Joe and Donna. We rode south on I-35 to Emporia where we stopped for gas. I was getting lousy gas mileage due to the strong winds from the south, riding two-up, and the fully loaded trailer we were pulling.
From Emporia we took Hwy 50 west into the Flint Hills. At Strong City we turned south on Hwy 177 at which time we were on the lower half of the Flint Hills Scenic Byway all the way to Cassoday. In Cottonwood Falls we stopped to take some pictures of the historic Chase County Courthouse. Just south of Cottonwood Falls we stopped at a scenic turn out and took some more pictures. Chris then shot some more pictures from the passenger seat as we cruised south on 177 to Cassoday.
We continued south on Hwy 177 past Lake El Dorado to Hwy 54, where we rode west to El Dorado. On the east side of El Dorado we stopped at a park beside the Walnut River. The river was running full and debris was clogged up under a pedestrian bridge. The bridge was sturdily built but the water pressing on the clogged debris caused the bridge to vibrate. We also located a house where my aunt, uncle, and cousins lived years ago. It was at 421 Washington and was in very rough condition compared to the way it used to be.
From El Dorado we continued west on Hwy 54 through Augusta, Andover, and in to Wichita at 4:30 PM. We rode 218 miles today and the weather was great. It was mostly sunny but VERY windy. The high temperature for the ride was 84 degrees.
We stayed at the Holiday Inn Select at Hwy 54 (Kellog) and Rock Road. Around 5:30 PM a big storm blew into Wichita including heavy rain and high winds. The cover on my Goldwing barely held on. I realized in the hotel that I forgot the cord necessary for downloading photos from my digital camera to my laptop. So this blog will go sans photos until we arrive back home.
We enjoyed dinner with Joe and Donna and then called it a night.
Saturday; May 16, 2009
We got up early, hustled around, and left our hotel at 10:00 AM. It was cloudy and 55 degrees. We rode north out of Wichita on I-135 and shortly after getting out of the city the temperature dropped to 52. We were glad we had our cold weather bag packed away in the trailer.
We gassed up in Newton and continued north on 135. Just north of Newton we took Hwy 15 north to Hwy 56 west to Canton. The Prairie Trail Scenic Byway starts here. From Canton we motored north on county road (CR) 304 to the Maxwell Wildlife Refuge.
The land for the refuge was obtained in 1943 and was deeded to the Kansas Department of Wildlife and Parks in 1944. In 1951 the bison herd was started with 7 cows and 3 bulls (lucky guys). There are now approximately 200. We saw four a short distance from the road and a large herd in the distance from the observation tower. The refuge also has approximately 50 elk but we saw none of them. We had to ride a gravel road to access the refuge so the Goldwing was layered with white dust as we rode away.
We continued north on CR 304 to Roxbury (not much there) where we picked up CR 429 west. The scenic byway was closed just west of I-135 so we hopped on 135 north to Hwy 4 west. A short distance later there was a sign indicating Coronado Heights was right down another gravel road. As far as gravel roads go this was a pretty good one. Coronado Heights is advertised as a “stone castle” on a hill north of Lindsborg. It was even on our map. It is believed that Coronado was in this area in the 1500’s so in the 1930’s this “castle” was built as a picnic area. It does not appear to get much use these days but we did see several other people visiting the site.
We rode into Lindsborg for lunch at the Swedish Crown Restaurant. After eating, walking around downtown (Chris did some shopping), and having a coffee and a chai tea we rode west on Hwy 4 to Marquette. There was a gigantic congregation of motorcycles here (and riding in the surrounding area) for the Thunder on the Smoky motorcycle rally. Marquette is home to the Kansas Motorcycle Museum but we did not stop. After popping a quick photo or two we continued westbound.
At Hwy 141 we rode north to Mushroom Rock State Park. This park is accessed by 2 miles of dirt, gravel, and sand road west of Hwy 141. In places the sand was deep and particularly hazardous. We thought of our friend, Wild Bill, and how much he would HATE this road.
After making it safely back to 141 we continued north to Hwy 140 east. The scenery from Mushroom Rock State Park to 140 and then east to Brookville was very pretty. I was surprised that this section of 140 was not designated as scenic on the map.
We stopped for the day at a Best Western motel in Salina at about 5:30 PM. Google maps tell me the mileage from Wichita to Salina is 87 miles but we rode 165 miles today. We had a great time and saw some interesting sights. The high temperature was 66 and the wind was not nearly as bad as yesterday.
Sunday; May 17, 2009
We were on the road at 8:30 AM. It was nice and sunny but only 54 degrees. We rode I-135 north to Hwy 106 west to Minneapolis (Kansas) and then south to Rock City. Rock City was pretty cool, kinda sorta like a mini Elephant Rocks State Park (in Missouri). Very mini actually. We walked around, shot some pictures, and left south on 106.
At Hwy 18 we went west to Lincoln. There was a very impressive limestone courthouse there, which we photographed, along with some other stone buildings in town. In Lincoln we caught Hwy 14 north to Beloit, where we gassed up and then caught Hwy 24 west. At Glen Elder we saw an interesting building along the highway identified as “Porters Porkers.” Hog farmers, I guess.
Cawker City is on Hwy 24 and it is home to the world’s largest ball of twine – REALLY. We got the obligatory pics and then continued west on 24.
At Downs we rode south on Hwy 181 to just north of Hwy 18, where we stopped for a “historic” double arch limestone bridge, which used to be the bridge for Hwy 181. There was a nice gazebo here so we had a picnic lunch.
We then rode west on Hwy 18 to Lucas, home of the Garden of Eden. This is a home surrounded by numerous concrete sculptures. Both the home and sculptures were created by Samuel P. Dinsmoor (http://www.kshs.org/portraits/dinsmoor_samuel_p.htm) was obviously an eccentric old fart. At the age of 61 he built his limestone “cabin” to look like a log cabin and then for 20 years he created his sculptures and his own mausoleum (http://www.garden-of-eden-lucas-kansas.com/). From Lucas we rode the Post Rock Scenic Byway (Hwy 232) south past Wilson Lake to I-70. It was a pretty ride.
We reluctantly rode I-70 west to Hwy 255. We rode a short distance south on 255 to Victoria, home to the Cathedral of the Plains, the Saint Fidelis catholic church. We were able to go inside and check it out. It was a big beautiful building. The towers of the church reach 141 feet into the sky and can be seen from miles around.
We tried to ride old Hwy 40 from Victoria to Hays (it pretty much parallels the railroad tracks south of I-70), but due to a detour close to Hays we had to take some unknown back roads into town. We spent the night in Hays at an America’s Best Value Inn after dining at an excellent El Dos De Oros Mexican Restaurant. We had the chicken and steak fajitas for two. It was enough for four but somehow we got it all down. Sometimes a man just has to do what a man has to do.
The weather was great today, sunny with a high of 77. We rode 255 miles.
Monday; May 18, 2009
Another early start today ( it is our daughter-in-law’s, Brooke’s, birthday) - on the road at 9:45 PM in sunshine and 66 degree temperature. We motored south (into the wind . . . again) on Hwy 183. We had only ridden a few miles when we stopped in Schoenchen to photograph an old stone church.
We continued south on 183 all the way to Coldwater, which is at the west end of the Gypsum Hills Scenic Byway. We gassed up and Chris shopped at the Duckwall’s. We had lunch at the Timberwolf Cafe. My ruben sandwich was larrapin good!
We rode east on the scenic byway, which was Hwy 160. The eastern half was particularly pretty. If you are ever in the area I recommend taking this route. Chris was taking a boat-load of pictures so we’ll find out when we get home how they turned out.
Medicine Lodge is at the east end of the Gypsum Hills Scenic Byway. It is home to Carrie Nation’s house. We took a couple pictures of it and left north on Hwy 281. At Pratt we took Hwy 54 east for a short distance before we hopped on 61 north and east to Hwy 14 north to Sterling.
My father and his parents lived in Sterling years ago. We tried to find the house they lived in. I called my Dad, who told me the address was 417 Broadway. The addresses skipped from 413 to 419. You could tell where 417 once stood. The house had been torn down. So sad but I got a picture of the vacant spot.
Sterling College is in Sterling. My grandfather was a professor there, my parents went to college there, and I have many relatives who went there. Chris and I took off our boots, put on our athletic shoes, and walked around campus for some exercise.
We then rode north on 14 to Lyons where we found a new motel, the Celebration Centre Inn & Suites located on Hwy 56 at the east end of town. We rode 275 miles today.
Tuesday; May 19,2009
It was already windy when we rode east out of Lyons on Hwy 56. We rode through McPherson, past Canton (where we were on Saturday), past Hillsboro, to just past Marion where we picked up Hwy 150 east to Hwy 50 east.
Just west of Strong City we turned north on Hwy 177 (we were completing the north half of the Flint Hills Scenic Byway). A couple miles up the road we stopped at the Tallgrass Prairie National Preserve. We photographed the old three story stone barn. We also photographed the old house but it was blurred so it did not make our collection.
Our next stop was Council Grove at the intersection of 177 and Hwy 56. We changed into our walking shoes, did some walking, and had a fried chicken lunch at the Hays House Restaurant. The Hays House was established on the Santa Fe Trail in 1857 by Seth Hays, great grandson of Daniel Boone.
Two hours later we continued east on 56 to K-7 Hwy north and home to Shawnee. Today we rode 240 miles.
Summary
We rode four of the Kansas Scenic Byways; Flint Hills, Prairie Trail, Post Rock, and Gypsum Hills. We saw several sights along the way. Other than the wind it really was great riding. We had a wonderful time and saw some beautiful scenery. People who travel through Kansas as fast as they can don’t know what they’re missing.
We left the Wetlands & Wildlife Scenic Byway, the Smoky Valley Scenic Byway, and the Liberty of the Plains for future rides.
To see our photos from this ride click on the following link:
http://picasaweb.google.com/goldwinger.shawnee/KansasScenicBywaysTour?authkey=Gv1sRgCOmA4d7q_fq07AE&feat=directlink
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